Water Fuel for All FAQ

1. How can the WaterfuelForAll booster improve my mileage?
Will I still get the same power I have come to expect from my vehicle?
Adding a hydrogen-oxygen mix (also called hydroxy) to the fuel system of an internal combustion engine, increases the combustion of the gasoline (or diesel). This can be compared to putting a super high grade of gasoline in your engine. You get better overall performance, increased horsepower and gas mileage. The booster uses electrical power from the engine that is ultimately created by the fossil fuel, but the gain in efficiency of the engine exceeds the energy loss from generating the hydroxy mix.
The increase in horsepower and gas mileage comes from better combustion of the gasoline. Usually, only about 15% of the available energy in gasoline is converted to mechanical energy in an internal combustion engine. The addition of hydroxy results in better combustion which means more of the available energy in the gasoline is converted to mechanical energy and that has nothing to do with creating energy or violating any laws of thermodynamics.

2. Is the WaterfuelForAll booster a “true series cell”?
The 6 series cell tubular design is a “true series cell”, since the cells are completely seperated/isolated from each other so that water cannot flow from one cell to an adjacent cell. In this regard readers might be interested to know who really is the father of the- “true series cell”. The credit must go to William Rhodes, see US Patent no. 3,310,483, (1967) who built the first series cell electrolyzer.

3. Which booster is the best?
There is no such thing as a booster that will always be the best under all circumstances.
However, the two most important factors when comparing boosters are their efficiency, in other words, how much gas generated for a certain amount of power consumed, and also whether they overheat or not.

Some boosters, claim impressive amounts of liters per minute gas production, but they do not tell us at how many amps were used and at what water temperature the measurement was taken.
Knowing how many amps is needed is important because it tells us both how efficient the cell is as well as whether the design is likely to have overheating problems.

The less efficient a cell is, the more there is current leakage and as a result the more generation of waste heat. (So for instance generating 3 lpm @ 35A is less energy efficient than generating 2 lpm @ 20A, and one should not just look at the lpm!). Knowing at what water temperature the reading was taken will tell us if the gas was a high quality gas or maybe contained a lot of water vapour.

As a rule of thumb, a series cell design is the most efficient design for straight forward brute force electrolysis.

An open bath design will never be able to be as efficient as a series cell design such as the 6 series cell
WaterfuelForAll design. (In a true series cell design, the individual cells are isolated from each other and water cannot move freely to adjacent cells, whereas with an open bath design, the cells are open and water can move freely inbetween the electrodes and from one cell to another.)

The biggest problem with an open bath design is that because of excessive current leakage, it usually overheats rapidly and typically gets to 90+ degrees Celsius within +-2 hours. If an open bath design booster is not constructed from material that can handle those temperatures, you have a problem (e.g. PVC plastic which is only good for 60 degrees C)

Excessive heat also means energy is lost unnecessary with resulting lower efficiency. So a simple but very effective way to have a honest comparison between two boosters, is to put them next to each other and let them run at the same amps. To make an accurate efficiency comparison there should be no external water cooling device or mechanism present (e.g. heatsinks, cooling fans, radiators, siphons etc.). The booster that has the highest water temperature after two hours will always be the least efficient while the booster with the lowest water temperature will always be the more efficient design! It is actually the energy that is wasted that heats up the water, and hotter water simply means more energy is wasted which could have been used to generate more hydroxy. In this regard one must note that if a design needs some kind of external water cooling device or mechanism, this might actually disguise the inherent inefficiency of the design.

If you measure the gas production of an open bath cell while it is running at >85 degrees Celsius, it might look as if you are getting impressive gas production, but at those temperatures the gas contains a lot of water vapour, thus it is a lower quality of gas. So, be very careful when comparing the “claimed” gas production from various boosters. Make sure that you know at what operating temperature the claimed amount of gas was measured and make sure the claim can be verified!

Another important measure of the quality of the booster, is to look at the stainless steel being used.
Some boosters are constructed from cheaper stainless steel and not the more corrosive resistant 316 as is the case with the WaterfuelforAll booster.
Also the WaterfuelfoAll booster only uses plastics (e.g. nylon, polyprop) which are capable of handling higher temperatures as PVC.

So the biggest advantage of the 6 series cell WaterfuelforAll booster is its efficiency, which is up to 2 liters per minute at 20A (13.8V) for the Standard model, and up to 2.5liters per minute at 25A for the Delux model, measured with a water temperature not exceeding 75 degrees Celsius. Even more important is the fact that it can run 8+ hours continuously without overheating.

4. What models are available and what is their pricing?
We manufacture three models:
WaterfuelForall Standard max 25A, 20A continuous, 1.5-2.0 lpm @ 20A - USD 195
WaterfuelForall Deluxe max 30A, 25A continuous, 1.9-2.5 lpm @ 25A - USD 295
WaterfuelForall Super Deluxe max 35A, 25A continuous, 1.9-2.5 lpm @ 25A - USD 395

This price includes the electrolyzer with a 1 liter HDPE water trap/bubbler and the necessary hoses.
A “heavy duty” bubbler is available at an additional cost of USD30. All units are fully assembled and individually bench tested for a period of at least 2 hours. AWG 8 cables with soldered connectors, a 30A relay, amp meter and in-line fuse is available at an additional USD 50.

5. Which shipping options are available?

Two shipping options are available:
Americas Asia, Canada, China, Australia Europe Delivery Time

Air mail USD 100 80 70 +- 7-10 days
Surface mail USD 35 25 25 +- 35 days

6. How do you manage such competitive prices?
We had several e-mails from individuals telling us that they cannot beat our price if they want to build it them self, and the reason is simple: we buy our materials in bulk and have designed a manufacturing process that is very cost efficient. Our goal is to provide the public with a reliable booster but at an affordable price so that it make more sense for someone to rather buy a professionally built unit from us, instead of trying to build a unit them self, with all the related problems.

7. Which unit do you recommended for my car?
If your car’s engine size is larger than 2500cc, we recommend the Deluxe model otherwise the Standard model should be fine.

8. How difficult is it to install?
Detailed installation instructions goes with every unit sold, but the procedure is pretty straight forward and should not take longer than 1.5 hour to install, if so much.

9. Where must the booster be placed?
Anywhere in the engine compartment but preferably in a place where it will have a constant airflow (just like the radiator) so that it can benefit from the cooling effect of airflow.

10. How is the hydroxy injected into the engine?
The hose coming from the water trap is connected to the air intake before the air breather, so that the gases introduced into the intake are first filtered by the air filter. We are not interested in a vacuum because the manifold has greatest vacuum at the wrong time and no vacuum at the worse time. Also, we want the hydroxy gas filtered of any mist, which may carry traces of electrolyte. As an additional benefit, the air filter serves as a first line of defense protecting against a back flash coming from the engine.

11. Where do you buy your tubes?
We are situated in South Africa, and are buying our tubes locally. All tubes are grade 316 ISO certified.

12. Do I need an EFIE?
If the vehicle has fuel injection, it is likely that you will have to use an EFIE together with your booster, before you will notice optimal mileage improvement.
Examples of EFIE circuits available on the internet is:
http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/
http://www.madcosm.com/

In cooperation with Panacea, a reputable alternative energy research organization in Australia
we will within the next few weeks be conducting in depth tests in this regard, using the WaterfuelForAll booster. Panacea will be testing various models of EFIE’s as well to assist us in finding the best solution.

13. How much Hydroxy is needed for optimum mileage improvement?
I do not have the answer yet, but Panacea, a reputable alternative energy research organization in Australia will within the next few weeks be conducting in depth tests in this regard, using the WaterfuelForAll booster. Hopefully these tests with advanced computer equipment will be able to
answer all our questions in this regard.

14. How do I refill with water and how much?
The booster has a removable cap for easy refill. Just add the water until it wants to overflow the edges of the inner tubes. If you by accident fill up a little bit too much, then its not such a big problem.
Yes, there will be much more current leakage initially, but this will only last until that first bit of excess water has been used up, which should be rather quickly. If the water/electrolyte overflows, it will simply be caught by the bubbler/water trap.

15. What electrolyte should I use?
We recommend lye (also known as caustic soda, chemical symbol NaOH).You can also use KOH but it is usually more expensive than lye and not so easily obtainable. Do NOT use baking soda since it might damage the electrodes (tubes) which may lead to reduced gas production.

16. What kind of water should I use?
Distilled is recommended because tap water may cause sludge to build up and short the electrodes.
Should you decide to use tap water, you do so at your own risk and in such case we advise that you should regularly open up and clean out the electrolyzer, at least once every 3 months. If your water contains too much impurity, it may contaminate the electrodes which may lead to reduced gas production.

17A. How do I control the current draw (amps)?
Amps are controlled by how strong the electrolyte solution is, and to stabilize at between 15-18A you need to add +-30ml (6-8 teaspoons) of lye to 1 liter of water initially.
If you are driving less than 2 hours at a time, then you do not have to be too much concerned about the amps, and then you may add up to 50% more lye, and the current draw should not go above 30A within 2 hours. Thus, for usage less than 2 hours, you can start with 9-12 teaspoons of lye to 1 liter of water. Note that once you have reached the minimum required lye concentration (+-6 teaspoons), the current draw increases very fast with every additional teaspoon of lye added. So rather start with too little lye, than too much. You can always add another teaspoon of lye if you see that your booster does not get close to 25A within 2-3 hours, but if you have added too much lye initially, you may end up with the current draw increasing too quickly and after an hour you may be forced to switch off your booster.

17B. How do I prevent freezing in sub zero temperatures?
Electrolyte concentration needs to be high to prevent freezing. Alternatively you can put a heating/cooling coil around the unit (engine coolant driven)or wrap the booster with fiberglass foil backed insulation.
18. How do I / Should I condition my booster before using it?
Some successful commercial boosters do not recommend any specific conditioning procedure. On the other hand, Bob Boyce strictly prescribes the following procedure for electrode cleansing and conditioning:

Plate Cleansing -”During this stage, we are operating in submerged plate condition, where the liquid level is maintained just over the plates. Run this cell stack at full power for several hours at a time, which can be 4 amps or more. As the cell stack runs, the boiling action will loosen particulate from the pores and surfaces of the metal. Be sure to do this in a well vented area. Shut down and pour this solution into a container. Rinse the cells well with distilled water. Filter the dilute solution through paper towels or coffee filters to remove particulate. Pour the dilute solution back in and repeat this cleansing process. You may have to rinse and repeat many times until the cells stop putting out particulate matter into the solution. Optionally, you can use new solution each time you cleanse, but be forwarned, you can go through a lot of solution just in this cleansing stage. When cleansing is finished (typically 3 days of cleansing), do a final rinse with clean distilled water.”(Not that Bob’s system use a 101 plate cell, thus full power is only 4 amps. For the WaterfuelForAll booster, full power would imply 20-25A)

Plate Conditioning - “Using the same concentration of solution as in cleansing, now fill the cell stack with dilute solution. Monitor current draw. If current draw is fairly stable, continue with this conditioning phase straight for 2 to 3 days, adding distilled water to just replace what is consumed. If the solution turns color or skims over with crud, the cell stack needs more cleansing stages. After 2 to 3 days of run time, pour out the diluted solution and rinse well with distilled water.”

My recommendation would be to try and stick as close as possible to the procedure prescribed by Bob, for best results. Best would be to connect your booster to a regulated power supply during the break in period. (I’m using a PSU rated max 32A) But at the same time I have to confess that I have experienced little difference between different conditioning methods tested by myself. While we are not trying to achieve resonance (we are merely performing brute force electrolysis), and while we are using a good quality grade 316 stainless steel, I suspect that the exact method used for conditioning does not matter so much, as long as the plates are never touched by bare hands or any other chemicals than NaOH or KOH.I think the most important point is to stick to using distilled water and just know that your booster will not start out at maximum gas production, but gas production will gradually increase during the first +-30 hours of operation.

During assembly we only handle the tubes with rubber gloves, so you do not have to be worried about contamination for a start. For simple brute force electrolysis for purposes of boosting I will simplify Bob’s procedure to: Connect your booster to a PSU and run at +-20 amps for +-24 hours before fitting to your vehicle. Interrupt the procedure every time when the cell gets to +- half full of water and replace with new water & electrolyte. If you do not have a PSU, just borrow your friends’! (I’m sure one of your friends will have one!)

19. Which are most efficient, tubes or plates?
A similar sized 7 plate series cell and 7 tube series cell should have similar efficiencies if built to the same precision. However, the biggest advantage of the tubular design compared to the sandwiched series design is the fact that the tubular design is less prone to leaking of hydroxy than the sandwiched series cell. This is because every seal between a sandwiched plate is a potential leaking spot at a later stage when the cell gets older (hydroxy has got the tendency to leak at places where nothing else will leak!)

20. Can I add a PWM to my booster and what would be the benefit?
Yes, you can add a Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) to your booster. Adding a PWM will allow you to manually control the amp flow as you like, but note that you will not have any improvement in efficiency. The gas production will merely increase/decrease as amp flow increase/decrease, for example, if your unit is drawing 25A and producing 2.5lpm hydroxy and you now add a PWM and adjust the PWM so that it limits the current to 15A, you will only get 1.5lpm A PWM is a necessity for boosters that quickly overheats.
While the WaterfuelForAll booster does not overheat (as long as you do not add too much lye!), a PWM is only is “nice to have” especially if you are only going to drive up to 3 hours at a time. However, if you are frequently going to drive for more than 3 hours continuously, then adding a PWM will make your unit more user friendly since you would not have to worry about the lye concentration and can manually control the current flow.

21. Can we achieve resonance with a 6 series cell?
You need higher voltages to achieve the high resonance efficiencies that Bob Boyce is achieving.
That’s why Bob’s cell is typically running at 170VDC or higher. Bob said that at 13.8VDC he only achieved very little energy gain, typically in the 1.1 : 1 to 1.2 : 1 range. He specifically do not recommend low voltage systems, as the environmental energy gain is very low compared to the drive energy, and the cost is still high as far as the toroidal power system components is concerned.